04/09/08 - Great food but not very express
Published Date:
04 September 2008
AFTER months of building work Melton's Pizza Express restaurant has finally opened in historic Colles Hall, writes Michael Cooke.
Hundreds of Meltonians have already ventured inside to see how the Grade II listed building in Burton Street has been restored and there's no doubt the chain has been true to its word in retaining its key features, paying homage to its rich past.
Built by William Colles, the hall was once used as a centre for the temperance movement as it attempted to keep the local community sober and, in a tongue-in-cheek reference to this, there is an 'In an emergency break this glass' panel
containing a bottle of Peroni beer located in the foyer next to a painting of the man himself.
There are also some historical notes about Colles Hall's past, including three commissioned pictures depicting Pizza Express' version of the saying 'Painting the town red'.
The Pizza Express signature open kitchen is also featured which, along with the high ceiling, is the main feature of the main restaurant.
But enough about the décor, what about the food?
On the menu, classic favourites sit alongside seasonal dishes, currently celebrating the tomato such as Quattro Pomodori, a combination of three different tomatoes, asparagus and pesto with Italian tomato sauce, and Etna, a fiery eruption of flavours featuring salami, sweet roquito peppers and smoked spec ham.
Our 13-strong party enjoyed a range of authentic Italian food, although pasta dishes baked in the oven were so hot the sauces had all but disappeared by the time they reached the table.
Service was less than express on our visit and the fact there are only four authentic Italian desserts on the menu is disappointing but, overall, we left happy after a gossipy catch-up.
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Last Updated:
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Source:
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Location:
Melton